Enoshima walk
Enoshima is a scenic spot representing the Shonan area and has been a tourist attraction for a long time. It is a Kanagawa-designated historic spot, a natural scenic spot, and is on the list of One Hundred Views of Japan. The island is 4 kilometers around, approximately 60 meters above sea level, and connected to the mainland by a tombolo. The existence of the sea cave “Iwaya” characterized Enoshima from ancient times as a place of religious ascetic practices, but it became prevalent as a pleasure resort of the Edo common people late in the Edo era. It came to be widely known for its beautiful scenery, and Enoshima was drawn in many Ukiyo-e prints and became a stage for Kabuki.

In recent years, it is known as a base from which to enjoy marine sports, and many people visit.

Katase-Enoshima Station
To get to the Enoshima district, there are three routes: the Odakyu Enoshima Line, Enoshima.  Electric Railway and Shonan Monorail. This time, we used the Odakyu Line from Shinjuku, Tokyo.
Katase-Enoshima Station was opened on April 1, 1929. The building is designed to evoke the image of Ryugu-jo, or Dragon Palace, the underwater dwelling of the dragon　god in the Urashima Taro fable.

 The long Enoshima Benten bridge brings you there. Now let’s start your trip while enjoying the ocean view.

Enoshima Benten Bridge

Bronze Torii

 There is a torii (gate) made from bronze when crossing Enoshima Benten Bridge. Here is a doorway of Enoshima. This torii was built in 1821 and it has become a designated cultural asset of Fujisawa City. Passing through the bronze torii, there is an approach lined with lots of attractive souvenir shops and restaurants on each side.

 

Iwamotoro
Passing the torii, a Shinto gateway, near the entrance of Enoshima, and going up the main street, you can find a Japanese-style inn, called Iwamotoro, which represents not only the history of Enoshima but also that of Japan.  Iwamotoro was originally a temple, and its history is more than 740 years long. This inn was loved by many shoguns and feudal lords who visited Enoshima as the holy religious object.
 

Although the building has been restored many times, you can still feel its history inside.

The road in front of Iwamotoro is too narrow and that makes it hard to bring in the parts or equipment to fix the old building all at once. So it has been restored little by little.

 

 
 The room that I saw this time was a traditional large Japanese-style room and I could enjoy a mellow time in that atmosphere.

 If the weather is good, you might be able to see Mt. Fuji from the room. (It might depend on the room.)

 
 In this ryokan, you must check out the two unique bathrooms.

 

First, let’s go see the Iwamotoro Roma Buro (Roman Bath), also registered as a tangible cultural asset in Japan.

 

The stained-glass doors are spectacular.

  
 The bathroom is in an elegant Roman style and the details, such as the ceiling and old-style taps, are also amazing.

 

 

Next, let’s check out the Benten Dokutsu Buro (Cave Bath).

 
 

At the end of the hallway, there is the Benten Dokutsu Buro.

The door at the end of the changing room raises expectations. Once you open it, there is another door…

When I entered, I got a feeling like being in the different world. The cave lighted up in orange made me feel like I was exploring a secret place.

 

At one end, there are so many red Shinto gates!  Beyond that, there is a dedicated statue, a replica of the statue at the entrance of Iwamotoro.
I’ve been to so many onsen, but this was my first time to see such a unique style of onsen.

I couldn’t see what was at the other end of the cave this time…. So I hope you get a chance to check it out.

By the way, it is said that this cave used to be used as a place to confine little monks who behaved badly…

 

I recommend you to explore the building.

There is a room with a ceiling of special handiwork.

In addition, there is a resource center in this historical inn. Since it used to be a temple and all the higher class of people, even the emperor and feudal lords, stayed here, it keeps so many valuable things. These teach you the history of Enoshima and Japan.

 

Not only its location, unique baths, and the nice views, but also the hospitality of the staff has quite a reputation. I guess staying here for a night can give you a great memory in Enoshima.

 

Iwamotoro
Address: 2-2-7,Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 
Tel: +81-466-26-4121
http://www.iwamotoro.co.jp/

 

Esker
The gate of an escalator called Esker is on the left-hand side after passing through the next red gate. If you take it, you’ll have no difficulty in reaching the top instead of going up steep slopes and stairs.

 

Esker
Open hours: 9:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m.,  9:00 a.m. – 6:45 p.m. (Saturdays, Sundays, national holidays, summer holidays and any events) 
Fee: Adults ￥350, Children \170 (all compartments)

 

After getting off the Esker, you’ll first catch sight of the statue of a white dragon. It is said that the dragon is a messenger of a goddess enshrined here. People believe that they receive good luck with money if they wash money with the water here.

  

 Walking along the street, you’ll find Hetsunomiya, one part of the Enoshima Shrine, which consists of Hetsunomiya, Nakatsumiya and Okutsumiya. Each is dedicated to a goddess. They are three sisters, known as the goddesses of sea and water. Many people came to pray for marine safety as fishing was big business around the area. Moreover, Enoshima Shrine is believed to have a power to bring happiness, a good match and to develop one’s skill. So, it has long been worshipped by samurai, entertainers, merchants, and ordinary people.

It is said that Hetsunomiya was built by Miyamoto no Sanetomo, the third shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate. In the ground there is also a building called Hoanden that houses one of the three major Benzaiten in Japan (admission fee ￥150). Benzaiten is a goddess, one of the Seven Deities, known as Shichifukujin, for bringing good fortune and wealth. Also, she is a goddess of entertainment with a traditional Japanese musical instrument called the biwa (Japanese lute). There, one can see the statue of the naked Benzaiten, rare even in Japan. It is worth seeing!

In addition, there is a sacred tree having two trunks stemming from one root. It is surrounded by many ema, tablets with one’s wishes, written by lovers or single people who wish to marry or find a good partner because the tree’s appearance looks auspicious.

Following a path, you can enjoy beautiful scenery. 

Getting off the Esker again, Nakatsumiya is there. Look carefully: the relief of flowers, birds, rabbits can be seen on the upper side of the entrance. Not only the carving but also the balance of colors between red and others are amazing. I never get tired of visiting many times. There is an old saying that the goddess of Nakatsumiya looked like Benzaiten, so famous historical kabuki actors dedicated stone lanterns to it to pray for developing their skills.

 

 Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden
Here is the entrance of Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden.

 Enoshima Lighthouse Observatory

The lighthouse observatory called Sea Candle is known as a landmark in Enoshima. It is located in Enoshima Samuel Cocking Garden. It is 59.8 meters high and at 119.6 meters above sea level, so you can enjoy the panoramic, 360-degree view from here.
    

Look at the below pictures. The scenery from here is beyond description! You can overlook boundless ocean and the Shonan coast, called the “Miami Beach of the Orient”! The gradational blue of the sky and ocean is breathtaking! Weather permitting, Mt. Fuji can also be seen! Looking toward the island, you can see Enoshima covered with greenery, and with waves crashing on the rocks. Standing here, you will feel the wonder of nature.

 
 Evening comes, it’s lighted up, and the observatory rising in the darkness is very fantastic! Why don’t you visit there when you plan to go to Enoshima?
 

Enoshima Lighthouse Observatory
Access: 25 minutes’ walk from Enoshima Station on the Enoden Line.
20 minutes’ walk from Katase-Enoshima Station on the Odakyu-Enoshima Line.

20 minutes’ walk from Shonan-Enoshima Station on the Shonan Monorail Line.Admission fee: ￥500
Admission fee: 500 yen
http://www.fujisawa-kanko.jp/

http://enoshima-seacandle.jp/

 

Okutsumiya
Okutsumiya enshrines the eldest sister of the three goddesses. Look at the ceiling. There is a famous turtle picture staring at you from any angle. It is said that it watches over a prayer. As the story goes, there was a stone gate in the compound dedicated by Minamoto no Yoritomo, the first shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate, which was the first samurai -centered regime in Japan.

 

Souvenir Shop Nakano
The souvenir shop Nakano is on the way to Okutsumiya. It is managed by an elderly couple, and they told me that many foreign travelers often stop by. You can purchase not only craftworks of Kanagawa but also Japanese traditional ones. A great variety of statues of maneki neko, which literally means a beckoning cat, can be seen in the shop window. Though there are various stories about the cat, it is always said that the cat with its right paw raised invites fortune and the one with the opposite paw raised invites people. Having a look around the shop, I came across this bolo tie. I found myself purchasing it. I’m sure you’ll make a lucky find. Why don’t you stop by when you visit Enoshima?

 
 

Souvenir shop Nakano
Address: 2-5-23 Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa
Tel: +81-466- 22-3864
Access: 35 minutes’ walk from Enoshima Station on the Enoden Line.
30 minutes’ walk from Katase-Enoshima Station on the Odakyu-Enoshima Line.
37 minutes’ walk from Shonan-Enoshima Station on the Shonan Monorail Line.
Open hours:
9:00 a.m. – 6:00 p.m. from April to September
10:00 a.m. – 5:00 p.m. from October to March
Cash only

 

Enoshima Iwaya Cave
 This cave was made from the erosion of the waves for a long period of time. This cave is mainly separated into two caverns.  The first cave is 152 meters long and the second is 56 meters long. The cave has been believed to be a spiritual and religious place by the local people.
  

 In front of the Iwaya Cave, you can see the beautiful ocean.
 
 

Inside, you can see the history and various exhibits with unearthly music and lights.

 

 There is a stone that looks just like a turtle.

 

 You can even see Mt. Fuji, the Hakone area, and Izu area from the open view space connecting the two caves if the weather is great.

 

You can get there by either walking or taking a boat from the bridge leading you to Enoshima Island.  It takes approximately 30 minutes on foot. Because there is a steep slope, I recommend the use of the boat for those who may lack the energy required.

 

Enoshima Iwaya Cave
Access: 30 minutes’ walk from Katase Enoshima station on the Odakyu Enoshima Line.
Tel: +81-466-50-3531
Admission Fee: Adults ￥500
Children ￥200
Group discounts available
http://www.fujisawa-kanko.jp

 

 

Asahi Honten
 Asahi Honten’s tako-senbei, an octopus cracker, is one of the most popular snacks for Enoshima visitors. This shop is located in the main street and the long line in front of it is the marker to find the shop.

On the special plates, octopuses get pressed and become a very thin cracker. They also have a cracker made from jellyfish.

 You can see the smashed octopuses or jellyfish in the thin senbei. It seems a little weird but actually tastes great!

 

Asahi Honten
Address: 1-4-10,Enoshima,Fujisawa,Kanagawa 251-0036
Tel: +81-466-23-1775
URL:http://www.e-murasaki-imo.com/catalog/#top
 

 Tobiccho
 When you come to Enoshima, you must try shirasu-don, a rice bowl of whitebait. Even though shirasu mainly indicates baby sardines, all other babies in the ocean, such as herrings, crabs, squids, and others, could get mixed into it.

In Tobiccho, the big portions are also famous and there are some customers who just share one bowl with two people.

Although you can choose a boiled shirasu-don here, I recommend you to try raw shirasu-don in this restaurant. On weekends, there could be a 4-hour-long line in front of this restaurant from all the people who want to try this famous, big-size, raw shirasu-don.

There are several ways to enjoy this rice bowl. You can put ponzu sauce, raw or boiled egg with soy sauce, or a mix of spices.

 However, at first, please try it without any sauce. You can enjoy the original, fresh taste.
 You might need to take a little bit of nerve to try raw sardine babies. But when I tasted it, I felt very little of the fishy smell and actually it was a great match with the rice. In addition, Tobiccho has so many other unique items, such as a sardine cocktail, tofu and more.

One more thing I recommend you to try is shirasu bread. It is a fried bread with shirasu and cheese in it. It has a soft and sticky texture. It is sold on the street, so you can take this along for your stroll on Enoshima Island.

Three pieces for ¥250

 Tobiccho
Main shop
Address: 1-6-7, Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0036
Tel: +81-466-23-0041
Open hours: 11:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.(The shop is closed on irregular days.)

Sando shop
Address: 2-1-9, Enoshima, Fujisawa, Kanagawa 251-0036
Tel: +81-466-29-9090
Open hours: 11:00 a.m. – 8:00 p.m.
The shop is closed Irregular.
http://www.tobiccho.com/_index.html
( There are two Tobiccho restaurants in this island.)

 

~Editor’s Note~

When I was walking around Enoshima with shirasu bread in my hand, a local lady suddenly screamed at me, “Watch out!” I looked up and found a kite circling in the sky. Later on, I heard that there are many incidences when people get their snacks stolen by kites around Enoshima Island. 

So please be careful when you walk around the island with snacks.