Traditional Culture  

 

It may be said that traditional culture is the inheritance of the repeated efforts by our predecessors to create archetypes that leave their mark. It is a characteristic of Japanese culture that there are many cases where you can feel the preciousness of “inheriting a tradition.”
 

 Did you know there is a place where you can see exhibits of famous Japanese artists, historical architecture usually seen only in Kyoto, and a Japanese traditional garden all at the same time in the middle of the bustling metropolis of Yokohama?

Sankeien Garden, located in the Honmoku area in Naka Ward, is the place you can enjoy all of these and actually so much more than you can expect! This place is great not only for the beginner to Japan but also for those who really want to know about the heart of Japan.
Even though the current image of Yokohama is that of a harbor city, it was not like that in the old days. Actually, this Sankeien Garden was the most well-known place in Yokohama.

Sankeien Garden is a big garden designed and landscaped by Sankei Hara, a wealthy businessman in the raw silk trade. If you learn about the founder, I’m sure you would really get attracted by him and get to like the place more.
Sankei Hara was adopted into the family of his bride, Yasu. They started getting to know each other as teacher and student. Actually, this relationship could be thought of as taboo in Japan. Thus, the story of Sankei Hara and his wife began from this special relationship.

Afterwards, he devoted his property to the local people and to the promotion of Japanese art, and his appeal was this way of thinking.

The lady in the left of the first row is Yasu, his wife.(See the Picture)
Sankeien Garden was opened in 1906. This garden was on the list of places protected from bombing by U.S. General Douglas MacArthur during World War II.

Sankei Hara had a great talent and interest in the arts. To assist and promote many young promising artists, he let them stay in his house and even gave them spare cash. Furthermore, he assisted them in studying abroad to let them learn more advanced arts. Later, some of those artists became the leaders of the Japanese arts field. Around that time, the idea of spending money for the arts was very rare. He was a person who knew the value of things, but also knew the need to pay for it.

 

Now, let me introduce more about Sankeien Garden. To make this garden, Sankei hired several people and made them go to Kyoto to learn about the sophisticated Japanese style of gardening. Then, he let them make this garden using the best of its original natural structure, such as the up and down of the mountain or the plants that were originally there.

 

Some of the buildings in the garden were brought from Kyoto, Kamakura, and other regions of Japan. Today, there are 10 buildings designated as Important Cultural Properties by the national government and 3 buildings designated as Tangible Cultural Properties by the City of Yokohama.

He opened the garden with the thought, “The scenic beauties of nature should not be privately owned, because they are in the Creator’s realm. It is a natural duty to open them to the public.”

As an aside, we had a big earthquake in Japan on March 11, 2011, and so many things were destroyed because of it. However, there was only one building affected in Sankeien Garden. It was only slightly damaged and it was the newest building. This fact shows how the old-style buildings and the Sankeien Garden’s structure, making the most of the original nature, are strong and have endurance.
The property has two main parts, the outer garden and the inner garden. The former has been opened to the public from its beginning, 1906. It was made for the purpose of enjoying flowers. The latter, inner garden was originally made for private use. The structure is more elegant, and you can see many historical buildings here in the inner garden.

 There is a souvenir shop when you enter the Sankei Museum.

The Sankeien Garden’s original handkerchief has the design of the Three-Story Pagoda of Old Tomyoji in a choice of several colors.
 
The other popular item is the “rakugan,” a confection made of sugar and flour to eat with Japanese tea. Its small size and cute looks make people choose it as a popular souvenir from Sankeien Garden.

 Before you enjoy the garden, let’s learn about Sankeien Garden and Sankei Hara. The exhibitions change every month in consideration of seasonal materials to make you enjoy it all year-round. Since Sankei Hara was a collector, there are many valuable collections and some of them are work of the artists he assisted in developing. You can also see his own artwork in the exhibit.
After seeing the exhibits, why don’t you enjoy Japanese tea?  You can see the traditional style of tea ceremony here. If you are lucky and it is not so crowded, you can even try to make tea by yourself.

Tea comes with Sankeien Garden’s original rakugan, a traditional Japanese sweet.
You might think that the manner of tea ceremony is a little complicated, but the basic manner is to eat very sweet sweets first and then drink the bitter tea. They even have English instructions on “How to Enjoy Japanese Tea Ceremony” so that you can know the beauty of the Japanese tea ceremony and feel the harmony of all the things around you through the experience.

 After learning about Sankeien Garden and having a relaxing time with tea, let’s start going inside the inner garden.
On the way to the inner garden, you can see Hakuuntei, a house where Sankei Hara spent his time for 20 years before dying.

 

The gate, before entering the inner garden. Expectations rise in front of the dignified expressions of the gate.

The first building you can see after the gate is called Rinshunkaku. The view of Rinshunkaku with the pond is one of the most beautiful landscapes in the garden.

As an aside, in Japan, we have a custom to enjoy carp for ornamental purposes. The carp in this pond could cost more than getting a nice car and there is even a beauty contest for them in this country.

Actually, you can also see it from the back side. You can see very valuable things such as “fusuma,” a Japanese traditional papered sliding door. It’s a little-known spot wanting you to drop in by all means. 
On the way back to Tenjuin, there is a bridge made by a big stone. You might wonder how people in that time carried the big stone from somewhere far because of the size. Actually, this stone was there originally, and as Sankei requested, the yardmen make the garden using most of the original natural structure.

 

 
The next building is Choshukaku, which the 3rd shogun Tokugawa Iemitsu ordered to be built, and moved from Nijo Castle in Kyoto to here.

Old Tenzuiji’s Juto Oido, the “juto” of this name indicates a grave built during one’s lifetime. This is also designated as an important cultural property by the national government. Toyotomi Hideyoshi built this building with a wish for the recovery of his mother when she got sick.

 
After seeing historical buildings in the inner garden, let’s go to the outer garden.

Next, let’s take a walk to “kyutoumyouji sanjyuunoto (The three-storied pagoda of old Tomyoji )” through the mountain road. The road enclosed by trees has the special atmosphere.

If you come to Sankeien Garden, please don’t miss the Three-Story Pagoda of Old Tomyoji, a symbol of this garden.

After enjoying the three-story pagoda, let's go down the steep steps!

A big house with a thatched roof is one of the most popular buildings in Sankeien Garden.
 This is also designated as an important cultural property by the national government. It used to be located in Shirakawa-go, an old, famous residence area in Gifu Prefecture. It was saved from its fate to be sunk under a dam and moved here.
 This is the only building that you can go inside all year-round and the structure is connected not by nails but by ropes or the juxtaposition of the parts. The smoke from the “irori” fireplace works as an insect deterrent. It would be fun to check the details. There are interesting things such as a doors made from solid timber, the great wood carving on the top part of the door, or even the old Japanese-style toilet! Also, the roof space is worth seeing!

 

 

After walking around the garden, now it’s time to eat some sweets with the great view of the garden! The Sankeien Saryo located just in front of the main pond has a variety of food and delicious sweets! The ones I’d like to recommend are the “sakura” ice cream with real cherry blossoms in it and the stick of dumplings! The dumplings are warm and all the pastes are homemade. What is special about this place is that all the menu items are written by the owner with pretty illustrations.
Why don’t you stay here and taste the sweets as the highlight of the Sankeien Garden tour?
Ladies at Sankeien Saryo.

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Tea, souvenirs, exhibits change every month. Sankeien Garden has so many other wonderful things, but I can’t introduce all of them this time. There is a lot to discover by looking at each one slowly and savoring the garden as a place to spend a whole day.
 In addition, Sankeien Garden has many different seasonal events, from changing flowers and scenery, so you will never get bored all year-round.

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Admission Fee:  Ages 65 and over  ￥300
Ages 12-64  500yen
Ages 6-11   200yen
Hours: 9:00 a.m.- 5:00 p.m. (last entrance by 4:30 p.m.)
Tel:+81-45-621-0634
Fax:+81-45-621-6343
Address: 58-1, Honmoku-sannotani, Naka-ku, Yokohama, Japan

Access: From JR Yokohama Station, exit the east gate. At bus stop No. 2, take the route 8 or route 148 bus. Get off at the Honmoku Sankei-en Mae bus stop, and walk to the garden, about 5 minutes.

Kamakura wood carving lacquerware

 Visiting Kamakura, please look not only at historical structures but also traditional handicrafts carried on for about 800 years. In the beginning, Kamakura wood carving lacquerware was seen in Buddhist objects, and developed along with Zen Buddhism and the tea ceremony. Kamakura wood carving lacquerware is one of the traditional handicrafts that Japan is proud of. Today, you can see many of these works based on the Japanese lifestyle, such as trays, bowls, plates and others.

 This tray, about 30cm×30cm, is made from a Japanese Judas (“katsura”) tree, more than 200 years old. Look at this hand mirror with carved peony pattern! How excellent is the form of embossing! Given coats of lacquer about ten times in the process of lacquering, base coat, middle coat and over coat,  they will get more tasteful when you use them again and again. The whole process of making Kamakura wood carving lacquerware is done all by hand, so there is nothing exactly the same on earth.

 
 

The Kamakura-bori Kougeikan, or the gallery of Kamakura wood carving lacquerware, exhibits works made by some craftsmen. You can purchase plates, wall hangings, trays, pins there as well.

 
Every Saturday afternoon, you can meet a craftsman and ask questions in person. In addition, they have one-day trial classes in carving. Please make a reservation a month in advance, and take part in the class with an interpreter.

 

☆Information about Kamakura carving two-hour experience

 You can learn a process of carving from this trial class given by a Kamakura-carving craftsman. Don’t worry, this class is for beginners! In this class you will make a coaster, or a tray, and designs for them are already prepared, so beginners can enjoy carving! For those who want to put the finishing touches on their works, the lacquering process, the craftsman can do it and send it to you if you pay an additional fee and shipping costs.

 

The Gallery of Kamakura-bori
Address: 3-4-7, Yuigahama, Kamakura, Kanagawa
Tel: +81-467-23-0154
Fax: +81-467-23-9816
Opening hours: 10:00 a.m.- 5:00 p.m.
Closed on Sundays and national holidays
Access: One-minute walk for Yuigahama beach from Wadazuka Sta.on the Enoden Line.
The class fee: The cost of materials is required separately.
http://www.kamakurabori.or.jp/top.html

※To participate in the one-day class, you need to make a reservation a month in advance, and take part in it with an interpreter.

 

 

The Kamakurabori Assembly Hall
Address: 2-15-13 Komachi, Kamakura, Kanagawa
TEL: +81-467-25-1500
FAX: +81-467-25-1501
Opening hours: 9:00 a.m.-5:00 p.m. (Entrance until 4:30 p.m.)
Closed on summer holidays and around year-end and New Year’s
Access: 5-min. walk from Kamakura Sta. on the JR Yokosuka Line or Enoden Line
Inquire about details of the Kamakura-bori one-day trial
Email: kyoujukai@kamakuraborikaikan.jp
http://www.kamakuraborikaikan.jp/index0.html

 

 ☆Tour Guide Information  

Kamakura City Tourist Association
Tel: +81-467-23-3050
Opening hours: 8:30 a.m.-5:15 p.m.
Closed on Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays
http://www1.kamakuranet.ne.jp/kwga/default.htm

 

     Waraku, chopsticks store     

  

  You cannot miss chopsticks in Japanese life.Recently, an increasing number of Japanese carry their chopsticks with them for ecological purposes. How about purchasing your chopsticks? I recommend the chopsticks store Waraku.

 

 It offers a wide variety of chopsticks in the form of circles, pentagons, and others. There are so many kinds of them that I’m sure you can find your favorite one!! Of course, you can also purchase chopsticks in the style of Kamakura wood carving lacquerware.

 They will carve your name on your chopsticks as a service if you purchase one.In addition, they offer a chopsticks pouch and a chopsticks rest. Why don’t you stop by when visiting Kamakura?

Waraku , chopsticks store
Address: 1-6-28, Yukinoshita, Kamakura, Kanagawa
TEL: +81-467-24-0463
Opening hours: Monday to Friday; 10:30 a.m.-5:00 p.m.
 (10:00 a.m.-6:00 p.m. on Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays)
Access: 10 min. walk from Kamakura Sta. on the JR line or Enoden Line.
http://www.k-waraku.com/

 

Japanese-style confections

 The adzuki bean (red bean), which is used a lot for Japanese-style confections, has dietary fiber, iron, calcium, making it rich and very healthy. I’ll tell you about “jonamagashi,” “monaka,” and “amanatto.”
 Firstly, I’ll introduce jonamagashi, which is always served at the tea ceremony, and is made in natural motifs according to seasonal flowers and things. So, it is not too much to say you can know the season at a glance. Moreover, Japanese see it as a high-grade sweet as a lot of labor and care are needed to make it. Then, some Japanese take it as a gift when visiting someone’s house.

 The Japanese confectionary shop that I want to introduce this time is Misuzu, which has continued to be loved for many years by the local people of Kamakura. It provides its confections to the famous tea ceremonies of Kamakura many times. All processes including preparing the red bean paste are done by the shop. The signboard is a landmark. Going straight into the alley, you can see the shop.

Look at these beautiful and sensitive sweets! They are works of art, aren’t they? Can you see the one in the shape of a persimmon? As you may know, a persimmon is regarded as an autumn fruit in Japan and it was autumn when I visited there. That’s why I could see it.
 

 The pink is a chrysanthemum. A lump of bean paste is made into beautiful sweets by a Japanese confectionery craftsman. This shows the craftsmen need observation skills as well as techniques and experience.

 

 At Misuzu, basically jonamagashi is sold to those who have made a reservation by the day before. But, if you are lucky, you can purchase a box of six different shapes of them (1,560 yen). Why don’t you visit there when you are in Kamakura? For those who want to definitely try them, please phone or fax an order to Misuzu. (They receive an order from more than 2 pieces up to 30. 260 yen each) The designs on the boxes and wrapping paper are filled with humor. There are many kinds of bells because Misuzu literally means “beautiful bell.”  They offer month-limited sweets as well. It is worth trying!

Misuzu
Address: 3-3-13, Komachi, Kamakura, Kanagawa
Tel: +81(467)25-0364
Fax: +81(467)25-0330
Closed on Tuesdays
Please contact them if you wish to cancel your order.
Access: 15-min. walk from Kamakura Station. On the JR Yokosuka Line or Enoden Line.

 

Chiyoda Kuri-monaka Honpo 　

 Secondly, I’ll introduce “monaka,” sweetened bean paste sandwiched in coated wafers. When it comes to monaka, we always think it is stuffed only with sweetened red bean paste. Chiyoda’s monaka is different. Their bean paste is mixed with chunks of sweetened chestnuts, called “kuri” in Japanese. So that’s why it is called “kuri-monaka.” It has been a popular and famous Chiyoda Kuri-monaka Honpo product and is also designated as a famous confectionery of Kanagawa. In addition, many stop by for them repeatedly. 

 You can purchase two types of kuri-monaka, red bean paste and white ones. The brown wafers are stuffed with red bean paste, and the pink is the other　(210 yen each). Of course, both pastes are handmade! The special pastes are stuffed into the wafers in plenty. I’m sure you think they must be too sweet, and too much. But, it’s not so sweet and much as you expect. Rather, the balance is perfect!So, you can eat it up!

 The wafers are also good! You can enjoy the savory scent of the wafers as well as the crunchy texture. The scent spreads through the mouth as soon as you put it into your mouth. It is a good idea to taste each kind, red and white, one at a time.

 

 They are good refreshments! The store is located near Yokohama Station. Why don’t you look around and try some?
 

Chiyoda Kuri-monaka Honpo
Address: 1-12-13, Okano, Nishi-ku, Yokohama, Kanagawa
Tel: +81 (45) 311-2764
Opening hours: 9:00 a.m.-8:00 p.m.
Closed on Sundays
Access: 7-min. walk from Yokohama Station.
 

  

Omoya , sugar-glazed beans shop

 Lastly, I’ll introduce “amanatto.” Do you know amanatto? They are sugar-glazed beans that have long been loved by the Japanese. Today, it is difficult to find a shop specializing in them. But, in Yokohama, you can find it! It is called Omoya!

 This shop has something of a nostalgic atmosphere, and the agreeable shop owner will welcome you. It is one of my favorite shops I’ve been to.

  

 What I’d like you to try is Otafuku-mame, or sweetened broad beans, the black ones. For those who don’t like sweetened beans, I recommend sweetened chestnuts. It could be said that’s the Japanese-style marron glace. Both of them are very soft and moist and taste good! The texture cannot be enjoyed at any other shops. The owner said, “The secret of the taste is making only as much amanatto as is sold in one day.” Why don‘t you try them and enjoy the texture?

Omoya, sugar-glazed beans shop
Address: 3-7, Yoshino-cho, Minami-ku, Yokohama
Tel: +81 (45) 251-5134
Opening hours: 10:00 a.m.-7:00 p.m.
Closed: Sundays
Access: Get off at Yoshino-cho Station on the Yokohama Subway Line

 

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Editor’s Note

In Japan, “立ち入り禁止” is the sign for “keep out” written in Japanese and there is usually just a simple line to bring notice to it. Especially, someplace like a museum or national park, they don’t put up a big sign so that the sign doesn’t disturb the exhibits or the landscape. I guess Sankeien Garden is one of these places.

An incident happed in the building called Rinshunkaku in the inner garden. This building is off-limits since it is designated as an important cultural property by the national government. One day, two foreign tourists who missed the sign entered the building and walked around wearing shoes covered with dirt! After they left, the tatami floor got all dirty with the mud from the shoes and the garden ended up having to change the entire tatami floor.

From this story, we can learn that not only just enjoying but also knowing about the culture of the country we are visiting makes the trip much more enjoyable.